Restoration, 2002

Engine bay refurbishing

New year started by painting engine bay, heater box, radiator and and some other parts black. Previous painter had painted heater box's 'car-screen' flap axle solid jammed, so I had to work that out and oil the cables. Now it moves fine. I also installed a main switch for battery plus cable (not showing in the picture), easier now to disconnect battery. Engine still needs cam cover and carburetor polishing and wire replacement, arrangements.

More interior work



Do I seem to be jumping between different parts of car? I guess I am! Well, sometimes I get bored to 'grease' jobs and do some clean interior things and then I remember that if I want to get this car back on the road again I need to do the dirty ones too, so back on them and so on.

Now it was turn of interior and I made new rear quarter panels(?), the old ones were dirty and cardboard swollen and bent by water. I also cut new carpets according to paper templates which I did in car by throwing some paper in and cutting extras off... Actually it worked quite well and I'm satisfied to the result, although professional upholsterer might have a word or two... But for me making those myself is more important than buying ready made ones. Not because of cost but because I want to try myself! Then I installed carpets and panels made earlier. See results in the Before-After pictures below! Use your browser Open picture to get bigger picture. The seats need new leather but I'll do that later. And luckily roof lining does not show in the pictures as it is pretty dirty. I'll do that when windows go out for painting the chassis. Some day...

                            Before                                                      After






Boot/Trunk

The boot had some surface rust and side panels were broken. I forgot to take before picture, but here is after. The carpet is not original Hardura one, but just normal floor carpet, fine for me. I found it easier to repair and repaint side panels than make new ones. The seal is missing (as well as the whole lid!), I'll add the seal after painting and lid is under work, new number plate light chrome housing ordered as the old one is broken and lacks some parts required to hold the reverse light class.


 
 
 

First trial for registration


On May 2nd, I took the car to the mechanical check required before registration, kind like an MOT in UK. They check brakes, steering, joints, rust, papers etc. My Jaguar did not pass, because of:

So, next trial after these are done. Good thing was that no other problems were found, no rust, all joints OK, main brakes OK (2.5kN front, 1.5kN back, well balanced within axle).
 
 

Registered!


On May 31, 2002 'Miss Moneypit' passed Finnish quite strict technical inspection (like M.o.T. in UK) and after that it got registered. It is now again street legal, first time since ~1998 when PO last time had valid tag in California. The work is no means over, there are still many cosmetic and other things to do, but this is important milestone for me, to strenghten my belive in the project as this is my first restoration. Now I'm going to slow down the work for summer and drive a little and continue work next winter with paint removal (it looks tolerable in these pictures, but paint is cracked and fainted, so new one is needed), respray, new seals, new roof lining etc.


Plug wires

Just to be sure, I replaced plug wires and connectors with a set bought from David Manners.
 

Rear engine mounting

Sometimes, specially when accelerating in a corner, a hard knock was heard from the car bottom. I went to look under the car and found out that propshaft bolts are sometimes touching rear engine mount. Probably the spring is weak. After ordering new parts from UK (it takes couple of weeks), I started to change the spring and rubber bush. Quite a difficult task if you - like me - can't lift the car up but have to work under the car which is just lifted by jack. After removal I found out that spring is probably good but too short, meant for the car without overdrive or an automatic. And putting a longer spring back with my just little bit too small wise was hard, but finally I made it and got all back to car. Seems to work now.

Steering column rubber link

My car has a rubber link in steering column, I think this varies in Mk2 depending of model year. Anyway, mine was broken, one of the four bolt holes was apart from the rubber. I ordered a new one, but the one I got from David Manners was different than the old one, deeper openings in bolt holes were missing from other side! And because of that, original bolts are too s hort. Well, I bought longer bolts and got it fixed.
 

Seatbelts

Now that the car is a driver, I thought it needed seat belts. I'm pretty sure the safety thinking at Jaguar on 1950-60 was not quite at a level it is in my 1999 Volvo, so having at least seatbelts would be something. My car is 1961, so there was not even seat belt fastening holes. I ordered new seatbelts from Finnish seatbelt company (Turvavyö OY). Then I had one guy to weld a B pillar fastening plate (see repairs/dead radio for what else happened in that welding!) and drilled holes to other fastenings by myself. Of course you have to make a hole to B pillar wood also. Otherwise all was pretty simple but rear seat belt roll on rear parcel shelf is quite difficult to fasten as the rear window is so close that there is not much space for spanner and through boot it is even more difficult. But I got some more space by pulling all the belt out from the roll. And in front mid fastening you need somebody to help as your arms are not long enough to keep nut under the car (propshaft tunnel) and tighten the bolt inside the car! But now I have fine seat belts. I wish I also had neck support for possible rear collision...

Compression testing

Out of curiosity, I bough a compression tester/meter and checked engine compressions. I got readings: 190,190,195,195,190,170. As the normal value for 3.8L 9:1 is 180, there probably is carbon build-up in cylinders,as also judged by plugs. I have only been driving in city, so there hasn't been any long runs to get rid of carbon build-up. And there is something wrong in cylinder 6, probably a leaky valve. Well, I won't do anything for these at a moment, maybe some sunny day.

Handbrake and brake fluid warning light

Handbrake/brake fluid level warning light in dash was always on, so now was time to correct that one. I started from handbrake switch, which I found to be broken and it is not serviceable. So I replaced it with a smaller switch bought from electronics shop and I adjusted the switch so that it lits the warning light as soon as hand brake lever is moved from rest position.
Then I moved to brake fluid sensor, which gave alert even when container was full of fluid. The sensor looks unserviceable, but actually the rivets are screws. So if you grind slots to them, you can screw them out. The float appeared to be normal cork, which propably has soaked so much fluid during 40 years that it did not float any more. And then comes the joyful part: where can you get a new cork? From wine bottle of course! And a bottle without cork goes bad quickly, so of course you have to drink it! Best repair ever! Restoring a car is fun! New cork in place, everything back together and works perfect.


Stripping chrome, lamps etc.

Oct 15th the driving season ended and I took the car off insurance and started to prepare it for paint stripping and repaint by removing all chrome and lamps etc.


Paint stripping ongoing, also interior stripped for easier repaint and for headliner change.


Paint stripped, some bondo for dents.
Bare metal (and bondo). Doors removed.


Clock and trip meter repair

As speedo and tach were out during repaint stripping, I looked into non-working clock and trip meter. I found nothing wrong with the clock, just added oil and fiddled with balance wheel post and spring touching it. The trip meter had hardened rubber jamming it. The high beam warning light above trip meter has rubber cover on it and during the years it had hardened, broked and fallen into trip meter jamming it. I removed the remains, oiled gears and teeth and put it back together. Let's see if it works when I put it back into car sometimes next spring. Or maybe I could try it with an electric drill. Update 2004: Clock required some more work, see Repairs
 

Restoration 2003 Back to main page